Improvement in sewing-machines



. v 4She ets' Sheet 1.

H. BLAND. Sewing-Machine.

No. 216.016. Patented June 3,1879

WM W W PETERS. PHOTO-LITHOGRAVHER, WASHINGTON. 0 C.

: 4 Sheets-Sheet 2.

H. BLAND. Sewing-Machine,

No. 216.016. Patented June 3,1879.

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Witnesses.-

4 Sheets-Sheet 3.

H.BLAND. Sewing-Machine.

4 Sheets-Sheet 4 H. BLAND. Sewing-Machine.

" Nb. 216.016. Patented June. 3, I879.

N PETERS. PHOTO-LITHOGRAFHEH. WASHINGTON, n, c

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

HENRY BLAND, OF LUTON, COUNTY OF BEDFORD, ENGLAND, ASSIGNOR TO THEWILLOOX & GIBBS SEVING MACHINE COMPANY, OF NEW YORK,

IMPROVEMENT IN SEWING-MACHINES.

Specification forming part of Letters Patent N 0. 216,016, dated June 3,1879; application filed October 19, 1877 patented in England, December9, 1874.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, HENRY BLAND, of Luton, in the county of Bedford andKingdom of England, engineer, have invented Improve ments inSewing-Machines and accessories thereto, of which the following is aspecification.

My invention relates more particularly to sewing-machines and theiraccessories to be used in the manufacture of straw hats, bonnets, orsimilar articles; but it is also applicable to other purposes for whichsewing-ma chines may be employed; and consists, essentially, of apeculiar arrangement of the feeding apparatus, whereby a high degree ofcompactness is obtained, and facility is afforded for regulating thedifference in the speed of the two surfaces for feeding forward thearticle and the braid or material which is in the course of beingattached thereto, an d for obtaining a suiiicient traverse without anundue elevation of the feed-surface; also, of an improved presser andguides, which are capable of adjustment to suit the degree of the lapand the width of the materials being sewed.

This arrangement is especially adapted for use in combination with themachine known as the VVillcoX & Gibbs sewing-machine, but is alsoapplicable to other descriptions of sewin gmachines.

In carrying out my invention I arrange the feed apparatus in thefollowing manner, m dch'cet: To the base-plate of the machine, and in aline with the driving-shaft, I attach a socket-piece carrying a shaft,to which is connected one extremity of a crank-arm, the op posite end ofsuch crank-arm having secured thereto a pin carrying the feed-block.This pin is arranged in the same vertical plane as the driving-shaft,and at a suitable distance below the same, and the feed-block isactuated by means of an eccentric fast on such drivingshaft, theserrated surfaces above the shaft having by means of this arrangement agreater traverse in proportion to their rise than in existing apparatusmoved by an eccentric.

The feed-block, which may be rendered capable of adjustment bodily inorder to reguate the length of stitch, as in the ordinary manner, isprovided with a fixed feed-surface,

and also with another feed-surface, which is adjustable separately andindependently of such block.

The fixed feed-surface is employed for feeding the material to be sewedor attached, while the adjustable surface is intended for the feeding ofthe sewed portion of the article or mate rial, and moves a shorterdistance than the block when desired.

employed for the purpose of maintaining the tongue-piece in its normalposition when not acted 011 by the lever.

\Vith one of the feed-surfaces I employ the ordinary presser-foot, andwith the other my improved arrangement of adjustable presser and guidehereinafter described.

To the plate or arms of the machine I attach, by means of a screwpassing through a slot, a socket-piece carrying the presser, the upperpart of the foot of which presser forms a guide for one portion of thematerial, while the lower part of the presser consists of a thin steelplatewhich separates the two portions of the material in front of theneedle. The slot hereinbefore mentioned admits of the position of theguide being regulated to suit the degree of lapof such material. I alsoemploy another shifting-guide for one portion of the material to besewed, which guide is operated by hand during the progress of the work.This guide is arranged in the following manner, videlicct: On the faceof the arm or cover I provide a dovetailed groove, within which works aslide actuated by hand. This slide carries a bracket having projectingpins or frustums of cones, through or between which the plait or braid,for example, is folded.

tail views of portions of apparatus.

My invention also embraces certain improvements in the presser-feet andtheir accessories, and which are designed to adapt thelatter to the useof my improved arrangement of feeds, the object of such improvementbeing to enable the feeds to take theinner edge of the plait or braid inall cases.

To the second presser I attach a rigid separating plate and footcombined, the guide for the sewed portion of the material being formedat the extreme back edge of such plate or foot. This presser may belifted by the means hereinafter described, in combination with which Ialso employ an additional lever or lifter workin g horizontally, so asto slightly raise the presser when required. I

A similar combined plate and foot is attached, when required, to thebefore mentioned presser separating plate and foot, for

i the purpose of forming the guide.for one plait when it is required tosew with three plaits. I also employ a turnover-guide to be attached,when required for use, to the combined presser separating plate andfoot, which guide consists of a foot bearing upon one plate, and formedwith ascroll or inclined surface which raises the edge of the sewedportion of the plait before it arrives at the needle, thereby allowingthe rows of stitches to be placed just beneath the outer edge of suchplait, so as to be entirely covered. When the auxiliary feed is broughtinto use, I employ an auxiliary foot, which is attached to the web orbar of the adjustable presser, so as to form an extension of thecombined separating plate and foot.

I further employ an edge-guide for the material immediately behind theneedle, such guide consisting of a bar or plate which is carried on apin fitted in a hole formed in the base of the carrier of the secondpresser, so as to be capable of adjustment toward or from the needle,and of being fixed by means of a screw in'auy adjusted position.

To the edge-guide there is pivoted a keeper, consisting of a plate whichbears upon the plait and is adjustable to suit'its thickness, so as tomaintain the plait in position or prevent its outer edge from rising.

And in order that the said invention may be fully understood, I shallnow proceed more particularly to describe the same, and for that purposeshall refer to the several figures on the annexed sheets of drawings,the same letters of reference indicating corresponding parts in all thefigures.

Figure 1 of my drawings represents a side elevation of a portion ofWillcox & Gibbs sewing-machine with some of the improvements which formthe subject of my invention applied thereto, as an example of one modeof carrying out the invention. Fig. 2 is a front elevation, and Fig. 3is a plan, both correspondingto Fig. 1. Figs. 4, 5, and 6 are de- Figs.7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13,14,153, 16, and 17 are detail views of sewin g-machine accessories constructed according to my invention.

Referring to Figs. 1, 2, and 3, A is a rock ing shaft fitted to workfreely within a long socket or hearing, B, secured to the baseplate 0 ofthe machine, and parallel to the driving-shaft D, such shaft A havingfixed to its front end one extremity of a vibrating lever-arm, E, whichvibrates in a vertical are, and carries at its opposite extremity a pin,F, working in a bearing or boss, G, formed in one piece with thefeed-block H, the length of this hearing imparting greatsteadiness andstability to the said feed-block as regards lateral play or looseness onsaid pin.

The center of the pin F, when the lever-arm E is horizontal, or at ahalf-stroke, is exactly perpendicular to, or in the same vertical planeas, the axial center line of the driving-shaft D above it. y

In the head or upper part of the feed-block works the usualfeed-actuating crank-pin or eccentric I, which is fittedto, or formedon, the driving-shaft D, as is well understood.

A carrier-pin, K, (see Fig. 4,) is mounted loosely on the eccentric I,and passes through a vertical hole formed in the feed-block H, so that,by varying the position of the feed-block on the pin K, the height ofsuch block may be regulated as required. The carrier-pin K is for thispurpose provided with a threaded extremity, L, carrying a nut, M, whichbears against the under side of the feed-block H, and by the act ofturning which the feed-block may be raised or lowered, as required,after which the feed-block may be secured in any adjusted position bymeans of the set or tightening screw N, which is fitted in a hole tappedin the feed-block, so as to be capable of hearing against thecarrier-pin K.

The feed-bl oek His provided with three feedtonguesviz., an outer feed,0, an inner feed, 1?, and an auxiliary feed, Q- which are pivoted to thepin F, and work in slots or recesses formed for their reception in thefeed-block, the tongues O 1? being pivoted directly to the pin F,whereas the tongue Q is pivoted thereto by the interposition of aneceentric'bearing, as hereinafter described.

,The outer feed, 0, is adjustable separately by the act of turning, bymeans of the handle R, a lever, S, which is mounted on a fixed center,T, in the casing or cover U, and is provided with a stud, R, engagingwith the slotted end of a regulating-lever, 'S. This lever is mounted ona fixed'eenter, T, in the casing or cover U, and is provided with awedged end, U, which operates against a suspended block, 10, acting uponthe feed-tongue 0, substantially as shown in Fig. 2. I

The inner feed, P, and the auxiliary feed, Q, may be arranged so as tobe controlled simultaneously or separately, as desired. In my drawings Ihave represented the arrangement which I employ for eontrollin g theinner and auxiliary feeds simultaneously, reference being had moreparticularly to the detail sections, front and side elevations, Figs. 5and 6.

V is a pin supported in the interior of the casing or cover U, and onwhich there is V mounted a sleeve, W, haviu g two arms or flaps,

X Y, the one X of which is arranged opposite to the side of thefeed-tongues P and Q, and is made of suflicient width to act upon bothtongues simultaneously, while the other arm, Y, is arranged so as to becapable of being lllOWXl by an adjusting-screw, Z, passing through thecasing or cover U and bearing against the end of the arm Y.

The range of motion of the feed-tongues P Q, is varied as required bythe act-of turning the screw Z For example, when the screw Z is turnedin one direction the arm Y is forced inward, thereby partially rotatingthe sleeve 7, and consequently forcing the padded extremity a on the armX toward the side of the feed-tongues P Q, whereby their range of motionis diminished, while. on the contrary, when the screw Z is turned in thereverse direction, the sleeve \V is moved. under the action of a spring,b, back to its normal position, or toward the same to the extent allowedby the screw Z, and the range of motion of the tongues P Q is increased,the latter being returned to or toward their normal position by means ofother springs, c c, as shown.

Either of the feed-tongues P Q may be so arranged as to be adjustedseparately by similar means, if desired. I have illustrated in thedetail, Fig. 5, the manner in which the auxiliary feed-tongue Q isfitted to the crank-pin F, the object of the arrangement being to enablethe ieed-tongue to be elevated when itis to be brought into use, andlowered when not required by the nature of the work. This an rangemeutconsists in fitting the tongue upon an eccentric, d, which is looselymounted upon the pin F, so as to form a bearing for the tongue. Theeccentric (l is provided with a projecting milled rim or peripher e, bythe act of turning which with the tlmmb and finger in either directionthe tongue will be raised or lowered.

t The dotted lines in Fi 5 show the raised position, while the fulllines indicate the lowest position, as the case may be.

, The plate f for the material may be either formed with slots for thereception of the whole of the feed-tongues O P Q, as shown in mydrawings, or two plates, f, may be provided, one having slots for thewhole of the tongues, and the other having slots for the tongues O Ponly, the plates being changed according as the nature of the work shallrequire, or not, the action of the auxiliarytongue O.

The devices which I employ for indicating the length of stitch arerepresented in Figs. 1 and 3 of my drawings. These devices consist of agraduated scale or quadrant, 9, formed on the side of the casing orcover U, and of a hand or pointer, h, attached to the lever S forregulating the throw of the tongue 0, which forms the feed for the sewedportion of the material.

It will be obvious that when the lever S is moved, in order to adjustthe feed, the hand or pointer h will describe an are around the quadrantg, and that, by suitably graduating the quadrant to indicate thecorresponding length of stitch for a given movement of the lever, thefeed may be regulated with facility, accordin to the length of stitchdesired.

The inner feeding-surface acts solely upon the plait or binding in theact'of bein stitched to the body of the work, while the outer feederoperates solely upon the body of the work itself. Facility is thusafforded by simply maneuvering the handle R for feeding the body of thework and the entering strawplait either both at exactly the same rate orfor feeding the body-of the work either slower or faster than theentering straw plait. This power control or adjustment during theoperation of the machine enables all the various shapes of ordinarystraw hats to be produced in this ma chine.

The needle of the sewing-machine and the rotary looper both work betweenthe two feeding-surfaces O and P, so as to insert the stitches, bypreference, somewhat nearer to the inner feeder than to the outerfeeder. The body of the work is held down upon its outerfeeding-surface, O, by the ordinary presserfoot of themachine, while thebinding or entering straw plait is held down upon its innerfeeding-surface, P, by the improved combined adjust-able presser andguide, which I shall now proceed to describe.

Figs. 1, 2, and 3 also illustrate the application of the improved guideforthe material to be sewed. This guide consists of frustums of cones it i, fitted at their smaller end to a guide-face, 1., which is carriedon aslide, l, the latter being adjustable in a groove, m, in the casin gor cover U, and capable, when adjusted, of being secured in position bymeans of a setscrew, it.

The braid or other material is conducted round or between the frustumsM, as required, according to the particular class of material used orthe character of work to be produced.

The object of the cones is to keep the braid as it is fed along incontact with the guideplate, to which the frustums of the cones orguide-pins are attached, thereby insuring perfeet accuracy in the lineof feed, it being understood that the feed-line can be adjusted inrelation to the stitching-line by shifting and setting the saidguide-plate, as before stated.

My improved presser-fect and other acccssories are constructed andarranged in the following manner, reference being had more particularlyto the several detail views, 7 to 1.7, inclusive.

Figs. 7 and 8 represent, respectively, a longitudinal section and planof the adjustable prcsser for use with the inner feed, P. It consists ofa vertical socket-piece, 0, provided with a foot-plate, 17, through aslot in which passes the attaching-screw 11 for connecting thefoot-plate c to the cloth plate or cover U of the machine. lnsidethesocket'there is fitted a rod or spindle, 12, which is pressed downwardby a helical spring, 13, andcarries at its front and lower extremity thepresserplate 19, which also serves the purpose of a guide to the body ofthe work, it being adjustable by moving the slot in the foot-plate 22along its attachingscrew 11, and of a separator, the body of the workresting upon the plate 1), while its edge bears against the face of thelimb g, by which the plate 19 is attached to the spindle 12, whereas theentering straw plait is directed underneath the plate 19, which thusseparates the two portions of the material in front of the needle 'r.

A pin, 10, is fitted into the spindle l2, and projects through a slot inthe bottom of the socket, such pin carrying an eccentric camlever, s,for the purpose of raising the presserplate 19, and keeping it elevatedwhen required. In combination with this lifting device I employ thefollowing arrangement: t is a disk fitted on a vertical pin, 11,attached to the footplate '0 of the presser, which disk is formed withinclined edges entering beneath the boss to, and .with it thepresser-plate 19 may be slightly raised when required.

When sewing with three plaits-thatis to say, two entering plaits and thematerial already sewed-without bringing into use the auxiliary feed, asimilar combined separating plate and foot, y, Fig. 9, is attached tothe limb q of the presser separating plate and foot 19, so as topartially cover the plate 19, as shown in the detail front elevation,Fig. 10. The material sewed passes over the top of the plate 1, the limbz of which forms an edge-guide for such material. The intermediate plaitis directed between the two plates y p, and the other plait passesbeneath the plate 19, the material and the intermediate plait being bothacted upon by the outer feed, 0, while the third plait is acted upon bythe inner feed, 1?.

In sewing with two plaits cidelicct, the sewed material or work and anentering plait where it is desired to conceal the rows of stitchesproduced in attaching the plait to the work, I employ a turnover-guide,(shown in detail front elevation and plan in Figs. 11 and 12,respectively,) which is attached, when required for use, to the limb qof the presser separating plate and foot 19. This guide consist ofafoot,

1, carried by a limb, 2, for attachment to the limb q, as beforementioned, and which bears upon the last plait but one of the sewedmaterial, and formed with a scroll or inclined surface, 3, which raisesthe edge of the last plait of the sewed material before it arrives atthe 'needle r, so as to allow the stitches to be inserted just beneaththe place which the outer edge of such plait occupies in its flatposition,

so that the row of stitches will be covered when the plait resumes itsnormal position. The needle thus passes through the entering plait andthe last plait sewed, the plaits being of sufficient width to admit ofthis arrangement. 7

When in sewing with broad plaits or othea wisethe auxiliary feed, Q, isbroughtinto use, I employ an auxiliary foot, 4. (Shown in detail sideelevation and plan in Figs. 13 and 14, respectively.) This foot isattached by means of a screw, 5, to the web or bar 6 (shown clearly inFig. 7) of the presser-spindle 12, so as to form an extension of thecombined plate and foot 1).

Fig. 15 is a detail plan of the plate f, with the before-mentionedpresser-feet p 4 and the presser-foot P, corresponding to the feed 0,shown in position.

Figs. 16 and 17 are, respectively, a detail elevation and sectionalplan, showing my improved edgeguide for the entering plait. This guide,which is employed for the purpose of guiding the edge of the platebehind the needle, consists of a bar or plate, 7, which is carried on apin, 8, fitted in a hole formed in the base '0 of the adjustable presser0, so as to be capable of adjustment toward or from the needle,according to the degree of lap required, the pin 8 sliding along thehole formed in the base 1;, and, when adjusted, being fixed by means ofthe set-screw 9 in the requiredposition. The keeper which Iemploy formaintaining the plaits in position, so as to prevent its outer edge fromrising, consists of a plate, a, pivoted at I) to the bar or plate 7, andfixed in place according to the thickness of the ma terial, so as tobear upon the plait, by means of the screw 0, a slot, d, being providedin the plate a in order to admit of the required adjustment.

Having now described and particularly ascertained the nature of my saidinvention and the manner in which the same is or may be used or carriedinto effect, I would observe in conclusion that what I consider to benovel and original, and therefore claim as the invention, is stated asfollows:

1. In sewing-machines of otherwise ordinary or suitable construction,the oscillating feedblock, in combination with and mounted upon a crankor lever carried by a rocking shaft, substantially as and for thepurpose herein shown and described.

2. The combination, with the oscillating feed-block mounted upon a crankor'lever carried by a rock-shaft, and actuated as set forth, of the twofeeding-surfaces, when arranged to operate together, substantially inthe manner and for the purpose herein shown and described.

3. The combination, with the feed mechanism, of a lever and a suspendedblock intermediate between the two, or of an equivalent arrangement forregulating during the workin g of the machine the throw of the outerfeed in g-surface independently of the inner feeders, substantially asand for the purposes herein shown and described.

4. The combination, with the adjustable presser,forming also anadjustable guide for one portion of the material to be sewed, of theplate for separating the two portions of such material, substantially asherein shown and described.

5. The combination, with an oscillating feedblock mounted on a crank armor lever carried by a rocking shaft, of a carrier-pin arranged toreceive the motion of the drivingshaft and support the feed-block, toadmit of the height of such block being adjusted as required,substantially as hereinbefore described.

6. The combination, with an oscillating feedblock mounted on a crank armor lever carried by a rocking shaft, of three feed-tongues, all arrangedand operating substantially in the manner and for the purposehereinbefore described.

7. The combination, with the auxiliary feedtongue and the crank-pin forcarrying the same, of an eccentric sleeve loosely mounted thereon forregulating the height of said tongue, substantially as described.

8. The combination, with the stitch-forming mechanism of asewing-machine, of an adj ustable guide, made up of a series of cones orfrustums of cones, arran ged as shown, for guiding them aterial to besewed, substantially as hereinhefore described.

9. The combination, with the adjustable presser, of a combined rigidseparating plate and foot, forming also an adjustable guide for oneportion of the material to be sewed, substanti ally as and for thepurposes hereinbefore described.

10. The combination, with the combined separating plate and foot andadjustable presser, of a combined edge-guide and separating-plate for athird plait when uniting three plaits, substantially as and for thepurpose hereinbefore described.

11. The combination, with the combined separating plate and foot andadjustable presser, of a turnover-guide, constructed and arrangedsubstantially as and for the purpose hereinbefore described.

12. The combination, with the combined separating plate and foot and theadjustable prcsser, of an auxiliary foot, forming an extension of suchplate and foot, substantially as and for the purpose hereinbeforedescribed.

13. The edge-guide for guiding the material to be sewed immediatelybehind the needle, the same consisting of a bar mounted upon a pin, andadjustably held by means of a setscrew in the base of the adjustablepresser, so that its position with regard to the needle may be regulatedaccording to the degree of lap required, substantially as shown and setforth.

14. The combination, with the edge-guide, of the adjustable keeperbearing upon the material to be sewed, substantially as hereinbeforedescribed.

In witness whereof I have signed my name to this specification in thepresence of two subscribing witnesses.

HENRY ELAN D.

Witnesses CHAS. MILLS,-

47 Lincolns Inn Fields, London. FREDK. O. DYER. y

47 Lincolns Inn Fields, London.

